# Viking360.com RapidFire Kit

# Type 'CG' Circuit Board Installation

## !We are not responsible for any risk, liability or damage, legal or otherwise, to you, your property, your person, or anything! You assume all risks, responsibilities and liabilities!

This installation is not for novices. If you've never modded anything before in your life, don't make the Viking your first mod.

*** Be sure to hit up the DIY section of our forums, at http://www.viking360.com/forums *** You will find even more diagrams ***

Materials list:

- Viking RapidFire Mod Chip
- A wireless xbox 360 controller with 'CG' circuit board
- Torx-8 tamper resistant screwdriver
- A * GOOD* Soldering iron
  - I recommend purchasing a nice Hakko or Weller. I use Hakko FX951.
  - You can also try using the cheap iron from Radio Shack.
- De-soldering iron (Ok, I do use the cheap $10.99 Radio Shack desoldering tool and love it)
- Electrical Tape ('soft', scotch brand seems to work well)
- Small Wire, i.e. 30 AWG wire-wrap wire. I use wire from Jameco or Fry's.
- Sponge or other method of cleaning the soldering iron tip
- Torx-8 tamper-resistant screwdriver
- Drill
- Small 'wire snips'
- 30 AWG wire stripper
- Paste flux or liquid flux
- Tweezers
- Razor blade or other scraping tool

Sleeper configuration

Many thanks to GAMEROMS for this diagram.

Duo configuration

Many thanks to GAMEROMS for this diagram.

### This tutorial covers the 'sleeper' installation. The 'duo' installation diagrams are included at the bottom. There are also some more diagrams in the forums. The 'duo' installation is *similar* to the 'sleeper', with a different wiring schematic however, and added tactile switches.

You can click on any photo at any time to get the hi-resolution screen shot.

Hint: I use a razorblade. Takes a steady hand. A magnifiying glass or magnifying lamp, or magnification headset, probably wouldn't hurt here. Some people prefer to expose the 'via hole' and solder right onto the via hole - in most cases, for me anyway, I can never get the wire to stick. I personally have much more luck soldering directly onto the exposed traces.

Process for soldering onto traces during this tutorial:

1. Carefully scrape back the trace.
2. Put paste flux on the trace.
3. Use your soldering iron and solder to 'tin' the trace.
4. Clean off the flux.
5. Clean your soldering tip.
6. Get a 30 AWG wire, strip the end so the stripped and is about the same length as the trace.
7. Apply fresh flux to the trace.
8. Apply new solder to your tip.
9. Line up the wire so it's parallel to the trace and solder it on.

Photo of an exposed trace (just after scraping) vs. a 'tinned' trace (just after first application of flux n' solder):

Again, it is much much much easier to get your 30 AWG wire-wrap wire to 'stick' to the trace if you pre-tin the trace using flux, then clean and apply fresh flux before soldering on the wire.

Ok, we'll rip through the next sets of slides. These all just show the different points you'll need to solder to, as well as the place I personally prefer to run my wires, and why.

Hint: Hitting the center peg of SW10 can be difficult. I like to put a dab of fresh paste flux on the center peg (if some spills over to the other two pegs, don't worry). Put a dab of fresh solder on your iron. Then I line up the wire with a pair of tweezers. I hold the wire to the center peg, while I try to hit both the wire and the center peg with my soldering iron at the same time:

In fact if you haven't realized by now, flux is your best friend, and will help you make a reat solder connection every time.

There are more detailed pics below, with more description, but for those of you who don't need all the extra words, here's a pic of the next 6 points we need to solder... (notice the 6 'copper' shiny traces that have been scraped back):

Almost done:

Now you must choose between Play n' Charge modification, or 3.5mm jack installation. PnC is much easier to install, but disables your Play N' Charge port except for programming the controller. 3.5mm jack is harder to install, but keeps your Play N' Charge functioning as normal.

### Play n' Charge modification

Play n' charge modification requires that you cut two traces, and solder two more wires from the PnC port to the mod chip.

### 3.5mm Jack Installation

The 3.5mm jack options requires you to solder three wires from the mod chip to the 3.5mm jack.

One possible location to drill for the 3.5mm jack. 1/4" drill bit. We use hot glue to glue the jack into place. You have to make sure the jack doesn't 'ram' into the rumble pads when you close up the controller so take your time and drill exactly as shown below.

### Closing the controller shell

Close up the controller. Flash the mod chip with the Sleeper button test code, then test all the buttons to make sure they are working properly.